On a map the distance between our
starting and ending points on day six is
a scant 30km, hardly an epic day. A
planned detour triples the distance,
leading the group over the mountains
separating the valley from the sea, not
once, but twice.
Punching through a mountain
separating rift valley from the sea at an
altitude of nearly 500m, the Yuzhang
Tunnel might be the best tunnel in the
wo r l d f o r c y c l i n g — e s p e c i a l l y
considering that tunnels themselves are
not normally thought of as prime
cycling roads. The tunnel offers a long,
flat, and straight road after a winding
8km climb. This, and its near-complete
lack of traffic, makes it an excellent
place for the group to crank out a long
sprint.
The same can’t be said for the
downhill which follows. While not quite
winding enough to be considered a
technical descent, the road is steep and
curvaceous enough to discourage
serious speed.
Along the coast, the group enjoys
another picnic lunch outside of the Cave
of the Eight Immortals and continuing
north on the coast and hanging a left by
the town of Fengbin for the ride back to
the rift across another jungle-filled
stretch of mountain road.
While our bicycles are tuned up, the
riders feast, rest, and feast more in
extreme out-of-saddle luxury. Even the
Danes seem content to spend the day off
their bikes.
H a l f w a y
a r o u n d
T a i w a n
Bucolic splendor is today’s theme as the
group rides through the rice paddies and
farmland of Taiwan’s rift valley.
Flanked by mountains on both sides, the
day’s ride proves easy — at least until
mid-afternoon.
Just after lunch, skies change from
blue to gray, eventually opening into a
gusty rain several miles past Fuli. By
the time the road takes a sharp incline to
Ruisui every rider in the group is soaked
through their raingear, making the final
kilometers an uncomfortable slog up the
wide, winding, and steep terrain that
climbs from rice flats to the tea hills.
Too cold to rest, the group stops only
for a few pictures next to the Tropic of
Cancer marker at the top of the hill. In
Ruisui, cold bones and aching muscles
are soothed in the spa of a rustic family-
owned hotel, followed by dinner at a
local Hakka restaurant.
Stomachs full of roast pork, grilled
f i s h , a n d a d i z z y i n g v a r i e t y o f
traditional farm-fresh vegetable dishes,
the group sleeps well.
DAY FIVE
DAY SIX
Taroko Gorge undoubtedly offers some of
the most majestic views in Taiwan. From a
cycling perspective, the ride up the gorge
itself proves a mixed bag. While the grade
of the road is hardly extreme, its
narrowness — made more pronounced by
recent typhoon damage — and sheer
number of tour buses intimidates a few of
the guests. The grandeur of the gorge is
undeniable, and the day’s ending point, the
magnificent Silks Place Hotel in
Tiansiang, is a welcome sight.
DAY SEVEN
DAY EIGHT
Copious ice-cream and a comfortable
evening’s rest in the tatami houses across
from the Guangfu Sugar Factory mark
the last night before the tour heads into
Taroko Gorge.
44
enVoyage
Taiwan
Travels
