Most visitors to Hualien are drawn to the stunning Taroko Gorge
and its towering marble cliffs, but there’s also plenty here to
please surfers, too. Jici Beach, a 40-minute drive from Hualien
Train Station, is one of the few beaches in the area not
completely covered in rocks and coral. During the winter, higher
tides draw out dark stones from the seabed, causing the sand to
turn black. In the warmer months, the beach resumes its golden
hue and transforms into a recreational area with swimming,
camping, and surfing.
Surf shops in the area are sparse. The best choice is to sign
up for a surf tour with Overhead Hostel, located near the train
station. Service is available in English and Chinese. The hostel,
which was founded in 2014 by three local surfers, provides
transportation to the beach. Conversely, more experienced surfers
can rent scooters and surfboards and make their own way to Jici.
The surf is generally calm in the warmer months and the
south end by the camping site is good for beginners. If you’re
lucky, you might also see a couple of buffaloes munching on
grass in the nearby pastures.
PHOTOGRAPHY: TOP PHOTO GROUP / GETTY IMAGES(WAN RU CHEN) / ANITA YEN / ASIF HIRJI / IMAGE TAIWAN
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JICI, HUALIEN
Standing atop the windswept cliffs, you can easily make out the
anchor shape of Jinzun Harbor. An hour’s drive north of Taitung
Train Station, the sleepy fishing village comes to life once a year
in November. Since 2011, Jinzun has hosted the annual Taiwan
Open of Surfing, an event that sees hundreds of Taiwanese and
international surfers competing for a grand prize. It’s also ranked
by the Association of Surfing Professionals as one of the world’s
best surf competition venues.
For the rest of the year, the black-sand beaches and
turquoise waters covering coral reefs are enjoyed mostly by a
smattering of local surfers. The two main hostels by the beach —
Donghe Taitung Surf Shop and Taitung Surf Shop and Hostel —
offer board rentals and surf lessons.
You can also take in the stunning scenery with a cup of hot,
fresh-brewed coffee from Jinzun Cafe. If you’re feeling
adventurous, trek further north to Donghe Bridge Scenic Area to
explore the largely untamed wilderness with steep cliffs dipping
into streams of clear, turquoise water.
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JINZUN/DONGHE, TAITUNG
A half-hour drive south of Jinzun down Highway 11, Dulan
village in Taitung County is a blend of bohemian lifestyle and
Polynesian vibes. In the morning, expect to wake up to the sound
of roosters crowing and the soothing melody of Amis aborigines
singing in a call-and-response pattern. Although predominantly
an Amis community, Dulan also attracts Han Taiwanese and
expats in search of the simple life — surfing during the day and
jamming at the Sugar Factory (an abandoned sugar warehouse
converted into a live-music venue) at night.
Ample surf hostels line the street outside the Sugar Factory,
all of them painted in bright colors. For an English-language surf
lesson, check out Wagaligong. Although the name means “let me
tell you” in Taiwanese dialect, it’s run by South African expats
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DULAN, TAITUNG
This picturesque stretch of Pacific coastline from Yilan down to
the Hengchun Peninsula in Pingtung County attracts beginners
and pros with warm waters and beckoning swells year-round.
