After a day of walking or
biking, take time to relax
and sample the county
’
s
culinary delights.
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PHOTOGRAPHY: TOP PHOTO GROUP
Flavor is an excellent excuse to visit Yilan. The county
offers unique opportunities for culinary exploration. Regarded by
many as one of Taiwan’s finest restaurants, Yilan City’s famed
Du Hsiao Yue specializes in decadent eastern Taiwanese
specialties like savory bacon-wrapped scallions, cherry-
marinated duck served with caviar sauce, and a rich (almost too
rich) cake made from a mix of chicken breast, pork, and seafood.
As one might expect from a restaurant whose menu includes
sauces made with caviar, a meal at Du Hsiao Yue can put a
sizable dent in a budget traveler’s wallet.
Less pricey — and more down to earth — is Old Mama’s
Homemade Soy Sauce, located in a renovated traditional-style
farmhouse in Yuanshan township. Roasted chicken, Old Mama’s
signature dish, is a rural Taiwan standard, but what makes this a
chicken to remember is its superb flavor and texture. The cooking
process takes place quickly in the high heat of barrel-shaped metal
ovens in the restaurant’s front courtyard, producing a crispy skin
while sealing in the bird’s succulent juices.
Of course, no culinary crawl of Yilan would be complete
without an evening visit to Luodong Night Market. Though not
the most famous of Taiwan’s many nocturnal outdoor eating
areas, Ludong is among the liveliest, and on some nights the
streets making up the market can become more crowded than any
other place in the county. Seafood plays heavily in the market’s
walking feast, and the grilled oysters and deep-fried squid of
Luodong are some of Taiwan’s finest. One Luodong specialty is a
fist-sized dumpling packed with vegetables, shrimp, oysters, and
eggs before being deep fried. It’s a delicacy against which any
conscientious cardiologist would advise.
But if you’ve overindulged, fear not. You’ll easily find ways
to work off the calories. Like the rest of Taiwan, Yilan has made
great strides to become cycle-friendly, boasting 77km of
dedicated cycling paths stretching between the mountains to the
west and the sea to the east. The 13.5km-long Seaside Cycling
Road, which links Zhulan Bird Watching Area and Dingliao
Ecological Park, offers plenty of opportunities to spy on nature,
while the 10.5km-long Lanyang River Path has great views of
nearby Turtle Island, the closest thing the county has to a
geographical icon.
If the riding, hiking, feasting, and cultural exploration of
Yilan leaves you a bit footsore, finding relief isn’t difficult. Head
to the train station in Jiaoxi, take off your shoes and soak your
feet alongside locals in the hot-spring fountain by the station’s
front exit. Let a few northbound trains pass, because there’s no
reason to rush back to bustling Taipei. After all, you’re right next
door.